The moment you sit down at the table at Yemen Cafe, even before you order, you get a bowl of Marag, a hot lamb soup, a platter of Malawah, a crusty flatbread, and a bowl of Zahawiq, spicy tomato chutney with chilies and herbs. The servers don’t rush and give you time to look over…
That Time We Went to Taste Queens
— Did you tell her she can eat!?!? It was a little after 8 AM on a sunny April Sunday of 2009. I was upstairs in the bathroom getting ready. Downstairs, Tom caught our nine-year-old Lizzie sneaking cereal in the pantry. No, I didn’t tell her that. We were heading to Queens for my birthday…
Sour Schchi, the Essence of Russian Food
From the mostly autobiographical novel “This is Me — Edichka” by Eduard Limonov which protagonist is a Russian immigrant abandoned by his wife living on welfare in New York (translation is mine — forgive me, Edichka): “If, between 1 and 3 pm, you happen to be walking along Madison Avenue where it’s cut by 55th…
Salad Olivier, Ringing in the New Year Soviet Style.
Why is this building on Petrovsky Boulevard in Moscow so important to us? Here, in the 1800s, when it was the famous restaurant “Hermitage,” a Russian chef of Belgian and French descent, Lucien Olivier concocted his famous salad. Butchered and bastardized, the salad has become a centerpiece of every Soviet holiday table and is now…
Amayar, Burmese Curries and Noodles in Maywood, NJ
In early AM, buses from my street shoot express via a highway to their next stop, a terminal block away from the Times Square. Off peak, those buses change routes and, on their way to the city, they take you all over Northern New Jersey. What takes minutes in the morning can take hours in…