Astoria, Queens, is known for its Greek neighborhood. But once off the W train and a little east along Astoria Boulevard, there are three blocks of Steinway Street known as Little Egypt with large Egyptian, Bangladeshi, Moroccan, Tunisian, and Algerian population, their stores, restaurants, hookah lounges, and that specific smell of sweet smoke.
This is where we ventured on a rainy Friday afternoon for some Mediterranean Egyptian seafood.
The view from the W train platform at Astoria Boulevard deserves a pause. The Triborough Bridge always in the news for its traffic makes you appreciate public transportation. How many times have we been stuck here on our way to or from JFK.
Aware of traditions and no alcohol policy in Arabic neighborhoods, we made our first stop at Bohemian Hall and Beer Garden, the oldest beer garden in New York City. We’ve been here years ago while getting ready for a Greek dinner for our annual extended family awards dinner at the Jersey Shore.
It was early and it was raining. Only two people besides us keep moving from table to table trying to find a safe spot from the upcoming storm.
We were taking our chances with the weather. Radar did not look friendly.
Elevated trains give these out-of-Manhattan area such a characteristic look. Obviously, they are not fun to live close by but they are so interesting to look at. They always remind me of the first scenes of Triplets of Belleville.
It was about a ten minute walk from the beer garden to the restaurant — along quaint and well kept rows of buildings and basically empty streets.
Once we turned off Astoria Boulevard onto Steinway Street, the rain picked up and restaurants folded their outdoor chairs. Just in time — we like it when it’s quiet.
AbuQir restaurant and market was named after an Egyptian village on a Mediterranean coast near Alexandria. The owner tried to recreate that feel of market to table service of seaside villages. Only his market is now not in Alexandria but at Hunts Point. Here, you choose your own food from what’s on the counter in front of you and the way you like it to be prepared.
At first, I asked for a menu. There was no menu. The host waved his arm over the fish laid out on the ice indicating — here’s the menu. Good thing we came prepared and people at the counter were friendly and patient.
We picked our food, chose the ways we wanted it to be cooked, and settled outside in the covered shed. Inside, the restaurant was small with six or seven small tables and lights were very bright. Interesting, but there was not a slightest smell of the fish at this seafood restaurant/market. We were definitely looking at something super fresh.
The view from my seat at the table.
With Tom’s super early work schedule, we’re used to restaurants not being busy — on a weekday, our dinner takes place when most people are still at work. But it was unusually empty here — only one more table besides us and barely anyone on the street. At first, I thought it was the rain but someone at the counter told me:
— For people, come later. It gets busy after seven.
Baba ghanoush was creamy and thick, smoky and garlicky.
This was my favorite variation on an eggplant — grilled and dressed with oil, garlic, and vinegar. I would really eat this every day and was thinking to get seconds to take home. Well, I’ll practice to decipher the flavors with the leftovers and try to make it myself. Vinegar really took the flavors up to a new level.
This eggplant tajine was cooked with tomatoes, peppers, and onions. Another one must try.
The food was accompanied by the most incredible oily and chewy pita bread. All the dishes had plenty of oil and juices to be picked up. I wish there would be a little more bread in this basket.
Grilled scallops arrived in olive oil with lemon slices, dusted with spices perfectly charred and juicy.
Grilled octopus with lemon, vinegar, and spices was very tender.
The medley of grilled shrimp and calamari — spiced with garlic, earthy cumin, and lemon. Charred on the outside, plump and juicy inside.
There were other options to have the food prepared — fried, cooked in tajine with tomatoes, peppers and onions, baked, battered or not. Grilled was what we chose.
The fish here is always served whole. The options are to have it fried, grilled, baked stuffed with vegetables and herbs.
We went for the traditional Egyptian way — blackened. A whole fish gets covered in cracked wheat. Because the fish is wet, this tightly pressed coating sticks pretty well. The fish is charred on a griddle until both sides are blackened. Then, the fish is pulled through water spiced with cumin, hot peppers, and lemon juice.
The skin of our branzino was shatteringly crunchy and the flesh felt like it was steamed. Of course hot pepper notes were ever so present.
As we were leaving, the waiter carried by us these grilled jumbo shrimp — heads, tails, and all — and I got a second thought to return and try it. Maybe the next time.
Outside, the rain was falling on Masjid al-Iman Mosque right across the street — an unmistakable reminder of what neighborhood we were in.
Al Ansar Group that helps arrange pilgrimages to Mecca.
An unmistakeable sign of New York City dichotomy — Sitan Gym teaching Muay Thai boxing next to Urban Modesty, a store offering abayas and head coverings for women.
Sabry’s is another seafood spot we heard about from Tamar, our friend at WFMU. Another reason to take a trip here.
There are plenty of little hole-in-the-wall places along Steinway Street offering authentic food.
Multiple hookah lounges create that specific sweet smoke smell lingering over the entire neighborhood.
Looking through the windows makes you want to come back and try every place on the street. Taking notes.
As soon as we crossed the 28th street, vibes began to change and more people appeared on the street.
I could only imagine the vibe of this area on a sunny weekend afternoon.
The outdoor vibes of Astoria felt more friendly than those of Manhattan. Definitely lighter traffic, cleaner streets, less cramped, and more customer friendly outdoor seating.
We obviously ventured through some Latino neighborhoods considering the murals and outdoor music.
Along Broadway, it started to feel uniform metropolitan.
Once closer to the subway, the multitasking vibes reminded us that we were back in New York, New York from Little Egypt.
And it was time to go home.