Malaysian Fried shrimp with Tamarind — Udang Goreng Asam from Fish and Shellfish of Williams Sonoma Savoring series.
My first book from this set was a garage sale find at my girls’ nursery school. It took me years to discover the real value behind this and other books from the set — most of them found at sales, thrift stores, or on the curb.
Chuck Williams had a good feel not only for perfect cookware. He knew fine food writing, recognized valuable research, and was way ahead of his time when it came to foods and cooking techniques of the world.
Most contributors to his series went on to become prominent food writers publishing books of their own and so many modern A-ha! moments have been explained in these books years ago.
With what I know now about food, it is interesting to go back to these books to check upon things missed and sometimes discover new hidden layers that have not yet become somethingburgers of today.
Flavor of this dish is intense — simplicity where one element is taken to the top with attention to textures and cooking process.
Tangy and sweet tamarind that flavors the flesh is amped up with intense heat of the oil which, in turn, makes shells shatteringly crispy. Quick work of high heat and the carapace of shrimp head preserve the juices. Nothing is lost.
WHAT WENT IN
— 1 lb shrimp in shell with heads;
— 1/2 cup tamarind water;
— 3 Tbsp peanut oil;
— 1/2 tsp salt;
— 1 tsp sugar;
— 3 green scallions, white and green parts cut into 1 1/2” lengths.
THE PROCESS
1. Rinse shrimp well and let them stand in tamarind water for 30 min at room temperature.
2. In a wok, heat the oil to smoking and cook shrimp in single layer over high heat until brown and crusty — about a minute per side. Reserve the tamarind water.
3. Transfer shrimp to paper towels.
4. Pour tamarind water in now empty wok and add sugar. Boil for a minute or so until it forms a glaze.
5. Return the shrimp to the wok, add scallions.
6. Coat everything with the glaze and you’re ready to serve.