This is probably the most talked about recipe of Russian cuisine — legendary chicken croquettes Pozharsky style.
There are many arguments about the history of the recipe, its name, and ingredients:
— It is named after Pozharsky family.
— No, it’s named after a fire in a chicken coup (“pozhar” in Russian means fire).
— Veal is the main ingredient.
— Your hands must be cut off if you add veal.
— Meat should be put through the fine meat grinder twice.
— The only way is to cut the meat with a knife by hand.
— Bread on the outside is cubed.
— Only thin long strips of bread can be used for coating.
One reliable story goes that once Russian Tsar Alexander I traveling from Moscow to Saint Petersburg broke his journey in the town of Torzhok. At Pozharsky family tavern, for dinner, he ordered veal croquettes. The hostess, short on veal, doctored up some chicken and served it as veal. By the end of the dinner, Pozharsky family confessed their cheat ready for punishment. But the tsar was so pleased with his meal that he asked to include it in the royal menu. Awards followed.
These croquettes have been mentioned by many writers, Russian and not. They became the most sought after dish in Russian cuisine. They made the town of Torzhok and Pozharsky Tavern a major tourist destination.
During Soviet times, these chicken patties were in high regard and only a few confident cooks dared to make them at home. My mother bought them at a special deli. With time, the croquettes vanished from the shelves of that deli. Then, the deli disappeared.
Once in the US, I had these croquettes at a Russian restaurant on Brighton Beach. They were divine. So was the view. Besides cutlets, the restaurant beautifully situated on a boardwalk overlooking the ocean preserved that specific Soviet “we’re-cooler-than-you” service style that doesn’t draw back. With that, I learned to make the croquettes at home.
The version that follows stems from a 19th century almanac published when the daughter of the Pozharsky Tavern owners was still alive. The recipe was most likely modified, but that’s how I found it.
The croquettes are neutral in flavor and go well with just about anything and everything – mashed potatoes, fried potatoes, rice, any kind of vegetables, buckwheat, pasta, or salad.
WHAT WENT IN
For the meat patties:
— 2 lb ground chicken (I grind my own, half white and half dark meat);
— 1 lb ground veal (please don’t cut my hands off);
— 5 oz frozen butter grated on a large grater;
— 2 slices of white bread, crusts removed;
— 1 1/3 cup heavy cream
— 2 tsp kosher salt;
— black pepper to taste (not a lot).
For the coating:
— 2 eggs beaten;
— pinch of salt;
— 2-3 Tbsp milk or water;
— white bread cut into about 3/8″ cubes and dried, about 10 cups;
— melted butter.
THE PROCESS:
1. Soak bread in cream and mush it into a paste with a fork or your fingers.
2. Mix together all the patty ingredients very well. It is important that the meat is as cold as possible but not frozen, so the butter won’t melt. You have to work quickly. You can even keep your mixing bowl on Ice.
3. Shape oval croquettes no thicker than 1/2″. You will have about 20 x 100 gr patties.
4. Mix eggs, salt, and milk/water for coating.
5. Dip croquettes in egg mixture, then, press in bread cubes. Refrigerate for about an hour but not more than two.
6. Here you can go two ways:
1. You can fry your croquettes in butter about 10 min per side until ready.
2. Or, you can bake them in a 400° F oven – about 20 min until they reach 160° F. If they get cooked but not crispy browned, you can use some broiling action — about 3 min — until they get a great golden look.