Italy meets Columbia meets Vietnam — in my bowl. Escarole with Cargamantos and Ot Hiem peppers preserved in fish sauce.
That was a complete improvisation and what a success!
At the market, I scored three beautiful heads of escarole. Yes, cannellini would be classic but I did not have them. Instead, I soaked a bag of cargamantos found during a recent pantry raid. The skin of these deep burgundy beans is thinner than most and they hold their shape when cooked like no other.
To raise up the heat, my hand usually reaches for the traditional pepper flakes. Yesterday, my eyes fell on the jar of Vietnamese peppers freshly packed in fish sauce after my recent trip to the H Mart. This habit started a few years ago when in one Vietnamese restaurant on 72nd street next to the Central Park, I saw a jar of this condiment on every table.
And here’s how it all came together.
With escarole, I scrubbed the sink, plugged it, filled it with water. Cut off the root ends of each bundle and let the leaves float until it was time to get ready for dinner. Then, I started crushed garlic in cold oil over medium heat. This way gives garlic more time to infuse oil.
Once garlic started turning blond, I added escarole — tearing the leaves, one handful at a time and not being concerned about the clinging water. That water from leaves helps wilt greens more efficiently. Once it’s all wilted, then I move leaves to a sieve to drain them well.
With beans, I soak them in water overnight with a tablespoon or so of baking soda. In the morning, I drain and rinse them, and bring them to a boil in clean salted water. Once the water is boiling, I turn the heat off, let the beans soak until I get back from work. Just before diner, I drain and rinse them again and cook in a new clean salted water for about 30 minutes.
Here they are, drained beans and drained escarole dressed with a really good Greek olive oil and Vietnamese hot peppers soaked in fish sauce.