Although geographically moving West from my childhood home, somehow my mind has always been drawn East. Probably like the place where I come from — neither West or East, or both.
When we moved from Manhattan to suburbs to start a family, one of my very first friends was Japanese. An artist by training, she was a phenomenal and very comfortable relaxed cook. Imagine that combination!
She introduced me to this new completely alien to me way of eating, cooking, shopping — living. I fell in love with the food, its components, styling, layout of stores where ingredients are presented in such an unusual to me way, with mystical characters on the packaging. And pottery.
Japanese clay pots truly involve all five senses when cooking. They a beautiful to look at. Their texture and weight are so sensual to the touch. And once in action — come the smell, the sound, and the taste.
This is a salmon miso and soy milk chowder cooked in a Japanese donabe.
As delicious as it is beautiful.
WHAT WENT IN
— 1 lb salmon fillet without skin, cut into 1” pieces;
— salt;
— 1 small head of broccoli cut into bite size florets;
— 2 Tbsp unsalted butter;
— small onion, minced;
— 2 Tbsp flour;
— 2 Tbsp sake;
— 2 cups vegetable stock;
— 1 medium carrot cut into 1/8”rounds;
— 1/2 lb Japanese sweet potato, peeled, halved lengthwise, cut into 1” half moons;
— 1/2 cup mild white miso paste;
— 2 cups plain soy milk or whole milk;
— 5 oz shimeji mushrooms, trimmed;
— shichimi togarashi for serving.
THE PROCESS
1. Season salmon lightly with salt, set aside for 15 to 30 minutes, pat it dry.
2. Blanch broccoli in boiling salted water for about 30 seconds, drain, and let it cool.
3. Heat the butter in your cooking vessel over medium heat and saute/steam the onion for about 15 minutes until very soft but not colored.
4. Add flour and stir for about 1 minute to cook it off.
5. Add sake and stir again.
6. Gradually add the stock, stirring so that the mixture won’t become lumpy.
7. Add carrot and potatoes, bring to a simmer, cover, and simmer for about 5 minutes until the vegetables are tender.
8. In a bowl, dissolve miso in soy milk and stir into the pot. Bring back to a gentle simmer.
9. Add salmon and mushrooms, bring back to a simmer. Cook for about 5 minutes, until the salmon is barely cooked through.
10. Taste good salt.
11. Add broccoli, turn off the heat, and let the flavors meld for a few minutes, covered.
12. Serve with some sprinkles of shichimi togarashi.